The Arctic Winter Riding Handbook

Annual Trail Rides: 29/200

Here in Quebec, Canada, we have variable weather patterns in winter from springlike sunny days of +10C to arctic freeze of -40C. While winter officially goes from Dec 21 to March 20, we find that it really begins on November 1rst to April 30th. SIX MONTHS OF WINTER! Our other three seasons are much shorter as a result.

Aside from the cold, winter also brings a new set of challenges for footing. Deep snow, sheets of ice, crusty snow can bring about dangers to horse and rider and also increase fatigue and injury if not careful. For the truly committed, a set of four winter shoes with studs and plastic snowball inserts, can make a world of difference. Particularly if icy conditions are commonplace and restrict turnouts.

I currently keep my horse barefoot, and as a consequence there are a cumulative 2-3 weeks a year where turnout is limited if not impossible and trail riding is off the table. I also benefit from an indoor arena when this happens, so it really is no big hardship. As a result, I end up with a horse that does better in more variable footing conditions (no snow balls under foot) and of course the cost savings are tremendous (60$ per trim versus 200-300$ per reset, every six weeks = which over a six month period amounts to about $1000).

I also benefit from groomed winter riding trails in a dense forest that start 100 metres from the barn door. The forest provides protection from the wind, which in the arctic freeze can often mean a difference of 10-15 degrees. The groomed trails also provide a luxurious footing which helps increase our speed (and my body temperature) and reduce the risk of fatigue or injury. On some snow-filled weeks our club groomers (all volunteers) will sometimes groom the trails 3-4 times a week.

All those caveats aside, it is absolutely possible to ride outdoors for 1-2 hours in -10 to -20C weather and enjoy it. I have a couple of tips to share that include mental preparation, clothing, gadgets, and pace.

Mental Preparation:

• The body adjusts. 0C weather in November absolutely feels colder than -15C in January. It is important to not overdress when the temperature starts dropping in the Fall so that you can prompt your body to adjust. Allow yourself to feel a "little cold" when winter begins. Not shivering, just not too comfortable. 
• Hold back on gloves and scarves and hats during the shoulder season between Fall and Winter. Keep them close in your pocket but don't wear them out of habit.
• Ensure the rest of your body is well fed, hydrated and taken care of. When something else is bothering us (bathroom break?) our body feels discomfort sharply. 

Environment:

• Temperature is but one element. Feeling cold is often more a factor of wind and humidity. Find a way to reduce these factors by riding in protected elements (forest?), with gear targeted at wind and humidity, or by avoiding the worst of those days and hours. Each region has a particular moment in the day when wind and humidity is at its worst (for us it is the early morning or late afternoon, so I ride around lunchtime).
• Sunshine is often not a good sign. Sunny days are some of our most brutal. They bring very cold temperatures and severe wind.

Clothing:

• I manage clothing to the worst of our weather patterns and so I don't go "all out" when the temperature is around zero. But when everything is needed, here is what I do:
• Layers: from long underwear, to thin sweaters under thick sweaters, layers truly are your best friend. Depending on where you are most likely to get cold, you can also layer your gloves with silk liners or your feet with double socks. Boots should be a bit bigger to allow for air circulation as air is your best insulation. Layers also provide the ability to create air insulation.
• Long underwear: super practical for downhill skiing, long underwear are thin layers you put under everything with a top and a bottom. 
• Winter fleece riding pants: I have several pairs of these and if the weather is around 0C I just ride with these and no long underwear underneath. If the temperature gets to -20C or below, I add the underwear. Kerrits have great options, and a few other companies too. Super stretchy to allow for layers and the fleece inside is nice. My pants have lasted me 10+ years so they have been a very worthwhile investment at about 60-80$ a pair.
• Snow Pants: for when things get really tough. You can use the regular kind or buy the fancy horse riding kind with stirrups and full leather seat. The riding ones often come in chap-like form with quick removable snaps on the side. I would only use these when I go sleigh riding for 3+ hours. And if I had big open windy fields to cross.
• Winter boots: if you don't have these, then you can adjust with the gadgets below. But I need winter boots 6 months of the year for traction on ice, and better insulation year round. Best to get them a little big for the necessary layers of socks and air circulation. Mountain Horse is a reliable brand.
• Leather gloves: some people use downhill ski gloves, but I like the simple lined leather gloves which provide great traction on the reins and the leather does a great job protecting my hands from the cold. With the right kind of easy horse, you could also use mitts which provide even better protection.  The Heritage Trail Glove is my go-to. Even at -20C.
• Knitted scarves: a good wrap around scarf that you can double around your face and neck is important. Its a good idea to protect as much exposed skin as possible, and if you have big open fields to cross you might even consider a ski mask and goggles.
• Helmet winter covers: winter fleece helmet covers are great and such an easy addition to your wardrobe. They close up all the vent holes in your helmet keeping your heat in your head, and they wrap around your face to protect your cheeks and ears. 

Gadgets:

• Hot pockets: I buy a box of these for my feet at Costco every fall. They are easy to use, last forever, and are great to give to friends who aren't dressed to ride comfortably. They won't heat up your feet but they will provide a few degrees of warmth for many hours. You can also get the ones for your hands, but I only use the ones for my feet.
• Heated insoles: These are great. I have the thermacell with bluetooth remote control I keep in my pocket. They recharge, and are perfect for -20C weather. I usually have them off because even at low temperatures they get too hot for me. But sometimes when my toes start getting cold I need a few minutes of warmth. Click the remote control. Wonderful. 60$ well spent.
• Heated socks, pants, gloves: I don't use any of these because I don't get that cold, but some of our boarders that have slow circulation swear by them. 
• Riding skirts: If cold thighs are your problem, then these are great. They also add a cover on the horses bum removing the need for a quarter sheet. I don't use them, but many swear by them.
• Saddle fleece covers: If cold saddles are your problem, then these are great. I don't use them, but they sure seem comfortable.
• Non metallic stirrups: Stirrups can make a big difference. English saddles often have metal stirrups which conduct the cold straight to your toes. Consider a different material. My western stirrups are wood and leather, and it's perfect for cold weather.

Pace:

• Walking and Trotting: This is probably the most important tip. More important than clothing or gadgets. At very cold temperatures you should not be walking more than 10 minutes. If you trot five minutes, and walk ten minutes, and alternate, your inner body temperature will heat your whole body. Same goes for your horse. Consider this as you plan your route, as footing and wind protection also need to be taken into consideration. If you have an arena, you might want to consider doing your warm up there, and then heading outside for faster pace. 
• Cantering for fun: If the footing allows, cantering will keep you and your horse warm. Take into consideration the horse's fitness level and the temperature as you don't want them blowing hard when the temperature is at -20C. But if they are regularly cantering sets of 2-3 minutes, and the footing is good, go for it.
• Warm up and cool down: Keep the first and last ten minutes of your outdoor ride at a quiet walking pace. Even better if you have some hills you can do, inside a protected forest or wind break. For horses kept inside, or blanketed, there is no problem but you definitely want to avoid making a sweaty horse in the cold winter. I haven't seen sweat on my horse in 5 months.

You are now prepared to tackle the cooler temperatures and enjoy a different kind of ride. The scenery and landscape in the winter are amazing, and the quiet sound of hoof steps in the snow is surreal. 

Enjoy!