Quaint Krakow

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We arrived in Krakow on a super short commuter flight from Budapest and spent most of the weekend wandering about the charming town, constantly watching out for rogue trams that want to run us over.

Our first afternoon was a delightful stop in the large market square to sit on a terrace, drink local beer, eat a lovely plate of cured sausages and meats with a kickass fresh horseradish purée, and watch the parade go by on National Constitution Day. Somehow, we often arrive in a new city on their national holiday.
Krakow town square and basilica
In the town square, many fine carriages and horses are in line, with beautiful women in black hats with white ribbons driving the carriages. Its so unusual to see only women driving so many large carriages, that I took notice. At first, I thought it was because of the parade. Later that day, I watch the carriages circulating with passengers and the pretty lady is up front doing nothing while an old peasant dressed man is driving the carriage. That is what I call “bait and switch”. Turns out the ladies only function is to hold the carriages in line and welcome the guests. They are the hostess. The man is the driver. Eugh.


Saturday was a flashback to 20 years ago as we met an old school friend “P” in the early morning and spent the whole day roaming around, looking at castles and gothic churches, talking and enjoying the local beer garden and delicacies. We started out wanting to have breakfast, and asked P to help us find a place that was not touristy but would have a touristy-type breakfast (meat and eggs). Well we roamed around in circles for over an hour, catching up but no closer to breakfast. We then ended up back where we started and succumbed to the lovely touristy  terrasses in the market square. 
Krakow town hall (Cloth Market)
Inside the basilica (above the scaffolding)

As we enter the basilica, we find the main attraction (a huge wood carved and real life size statues) under scaffolding. It was then off to the castle at the top of the hill, to wait in a very long line and then discover the tickets were sold out. At that point, I had a plan. Without an appetite, I took them to the local hot donut shop (Paczkis) and found out all the best flavours (plum, apricot) were sold out. But we weren't hungry so we stuffed them in our pockets, to P’s great dismay, and decided to eat them later. Maybe breakfast tomorrow.
Wawel Castle and Cathedral


View of the Vistula River from Wawel Castle


Then we were off to the Jewish quarter as we had now given up on seeing any real sites. When I saw this lovely beer garden under trees with cute little tables, I was sold. We bought beers, Krakow cheesecake, and a honey cake, and we continued to fill in the blanks of 17 years in different continents.
A beer garden hidden in the Jewish quarter


We also found a lovely neighborhood restaurant and had a delightful meal of roast duck with a mushroom sauce, a bottle of delicious Polish wine, and a plate of pierogis and Polish Sour Soup (my new favorite thing).

The most delicious roast duck!
My new favorite thing: Sour Soup

Now stuffed, and tired, it was time for bed. Poor P still had several hours of train ride ahead of him, but we look forward to seeing each other again soon. Maybe even next year, with a trip north to Gdansk.

And a dinner for three of roast duck, soup and pierogis with full bottle of Polish wine from the mountainous area of Krakow = 77$Cdn. Poland is less expensive than Budapest. If you find the right spots.

Comments

  1. lythaMay 7, 2019 at 5:06 AM

    Tell me more about the soup - do you know what it's called? I recently learned how to make Hungarian gulash in my Crock Pot!

    I dream of going to Krakow someday where I will finally eat a Krakauer, which is my favorite bratwurst in Germany but somehow I doubt they're authentic here.

    Then I'll go to the state studs and see all of Mag's family!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nat DMay 7, 2019 at 8:37 AM

      Funny enough, I ate no sausage and definitely no bratwurst on my trip to Krakow. Had some sliced kielbasa if that counts. You should definitely make the trip here. I wonder how long it would take to drive? Perhaps a weekend romantic trip?

      Delete
    2. lythaMay 7, 2019 at 2:48 PM

      I must ask what the difference is between kielbasa and krakauer! *ponder*

      Delete
    3. Nat DMay 7, 2019 at 2:59 PM

      Kielbasa is a thick ground pork/ham stuffed in a thick (15cm diameter) long sausage. Very polish.

      Delete
  2. TeresaAMay 7, 2019 at 7:58 AM

    I love walking around and enjoying the sites and sounds of new cities. I like seeing the tourist places but often the crowds make it hard to really enjoy. We were in Budapest last year I fell in love with it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nat DMay 7, 2019 at 8:38 AM

      I love exploring grocery stores and trying to cook with local ingredients. Of course, Budapest is also very special. And I don't quite feel as foreign any more.

      Delete
    2. lythaMay 7, 2019 at 2:51 PM

      omg you guys what I'd give to be able to just walk into an American grocery store right now....I recently discovered there are no artichokes in Germany. Except in cans. WTH! OK because it took me so long to notice i cannot complain but now i really wish to!

      We should do grocery exchange care packages. If there is anything here you and Teresa might want.

      Delete
    3. Nat DMay 7, 2019 at 3:01 PM

      Ive started investigating long term supply of pickled spicy alma paprika. I think I may be addicted. I might take you up on your offer. Stay tuned!

      Delete
    4. TeresaAMay 7, 2019 at 8:43 PM

      I may get you to bring me some smoked paprika.

      Delete
    5. Nat DMay 8, 2019 at 2:26 AM

      I will put a bag in my suitcase, but you really need to try the spicy Hungarian paprika. The smoked version is more of Spanish origin, if Im not mistaken.

      Delete
  3. LauraMay 7, 2019 at 9:02 AM

    lovely - Krakow is on my bucket list. A good friend from university is from there - I keep meaning to try and go with her, to see it from a local's POV.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nat DMay 7, 2019 at 9:04 AM

      My motto is ALWAYS accept an invitation from a local. They will show you the city like you might never be able to experience. And often, its cheaper. ;-)

      Delete

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