Prague, dark and moody

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When asked what I thought about Prague I always answered the same thing : dark. My last trip here dates to almost twenty years ago, in a cold November week where I spent most of my time drinking hot mulled wine in the old town square avoiding gypsies. Tales of ghosts, hidden passageways and underground tunnels, the stark period of the iron curtain, torture museums, castle dungeons ... it was all dark.

Tyn Church in the iconic town square


A view down the Vltava River

A view up the Vltava River towards Prague Castle (from Vysehrad Castle)
A view down the Vltava River from the Vysehrad Castle. Its a windy sailing day.

Fast forward in time and there are some differences but Prague is still moody. Tourists are abundant and things that used to be free are now being charged at every opportunity. We are struggling with all the currency we are handling and their respective conversions (Hungarian forint, Euros, Polish Zlotis, Czech Crowns ... and soon British pounds) but when the food stand at the Prague castle wanted to charge us 10 euros for two bottles of water ... we were shocked and ran to the nearby beer garden instead.

King Wenceslas would not be proud of the tourist inflation, here in front of the National Museum



My savvy husband found us a really nice apartment outside of the city which has us enjoying the more residential feel. Its just below the Vysehrad Castle and on the Danube so we have our fill of nearby sites and the public transit is amazing. We have our 72 hour go-anywhere pass and it has been a timesaver and legsaver. We are still clocking 10-12 km of walking a day and because of the hilly surroundings we have been climbing 10-15 stories per day as well. Thank heavens, because the eating has been epic.
What goes up ...

… must come down (Castle District)

The great hall of the old Prague castle, used for coronation ceremonies
The St. Vitus Cathedral is magnificent for the abundance and quality of stained class.

But the visit to the dungeons and the "oubliettes" trap was a stark reminder of the past.



Up to Vysehrad Castle was a nice trek with really cheap beer.
The basilica was the only building of significance still standing and struggled to be maintained through decades of Communism.
The ceilings here were magnificent with intricate paintings in gold leaf.




The weather has not been entirely cooperative but my easy-going husband continues to remind me that sitting back and watching others rush can be fun. So its been cafes, winebars, beer gardens and even afternoon naps!
A lovely evening stroll along the Danube had us admiring the lights. Unfortunately both our cell phones struggled to capture the magic of this view on the Prague Castle.

This plate of confit pork belly looked like a miniature forest.

And I tried the garlic soup which was delicious. But not sure I will be adding it to my repertoire.

And then when the sun shines, we bask in all its glory.





Now its back to Budapest to get some work done (deadlines!) and then we head for our last jaunt to London. The countdown for home begins, as we have 7 days to go.



Comments

  1. lythaMay 13, 2019 at 3:17 AM

    I'd heard that Prague is the most affordable city in Europe. I still wanna go. J said today I get to see a new country this Summer, woo!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nat DMay 13, 2019 at 3:38 AM

      That's awesome news! So many places to discover within a 6-10 hour train ride or drive. There is definitely a way to find a bargain, particularly in the destinations towards the south or east. I would look to Budapest or Krakow for inexpensive food and lodging. If you stay for a few days it makes the increased travel costs worth your while. I would also consider travelling off season which might be hard for you, staying slightly outside the city centers and avoiding all touristy restaurants.

      Croatia is also a bargain.
      Maybe Ill do a new post on travelling in Central/Eastern Europe on a budget?

      Delete
  2. TeresaAMay 13, 2019 at 8:36 PM

    I was in Prague last year. It seemed darker than the other cities I was in to me too. I liked it but we were also ready to head home.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Nat DMay 13, 2019 at 11:49 PM

      Ive enjoyed this trip and learned some new routines. We have definitely settled into a rythym here but I am very much looking forward to being in my old routine, seeing friends and playing with my horse. And being in my own bed again.

      Delete

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